Movado Chronograph in 14k gold , dial breguet number

This Movado M95 Chronograph Ref. 49038 is a compelling first-generation three-register chronograph in solid 14k yellow gold. Its 35.5 mm case combines a stepped bezel with sharply faceted lugs, a distinctive mid-century architecture associated with Movado chronographs housed in François Borgel cases. The warm gold case frames a cream dial with beautiful, even patina, applied Breguet numerals, three recessed registers, and carefully placed red accents. A burgundy leather strap completes a presentation that is both elegant and purpose-driven. The visual depth of the dial, from the fine concentric subdial finishing to the multi-scale outer track, reflects the technical confidence that defined Movado during this period.

Key Specifications

Collector's Note

Movado introduced the Calibre 95M in 1939 as the three-register development of its earlier 90M chronograph. The movement was innovative in its construction: the chronograph mechanism was a self-contained module added to the timekeeping base, which allowed Movado to create a complicated wrist chronograph without excessive thickness. The 95M is immediately recognisable for its unusual control sequence. Unlike most chronographs, the lower pusher starts and stops the timing function, while the upper pusher returns the hands to zero. The three registers include a 60-minute counter and a 12-hour counter, making the watch as practical as it is visually balanced.

The Ref. 49038 belongs to the first group of M95 references ending in 38. In the Movado coding system of the period, the initial 4 denotes a 14k yellow-gold case, while the 38 identifies the first generation with its stepped bezel and faceted lug profile. These cases were produced from the mid 1940s through the end of the 1950s and appeared with a broad variety of dials and hands. The applied Breguet numeral configuration is particularly expressive, combining a formal gold case with the detail-rich language of a professional chronograph. Direct inspection of the inside caseback remains the final confirmation of the individual reference and movement.

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